Can i grind valve shims

Depends on where you're at in the build. Is the head already reassembled or even back on the car? If so, I would use the surface grinder method providing you don't have to grind any of them thinner than the thinnest spec. Grinding valve stems needs to be done on a valve grinder; I have one, but suspect few others have them. Bob Seger. Originally Posted by miataturd. This is why you take the head with the cams mounted to the shop as an assembly.

This way the shop can set the valve clearances for you as part of the price of the valve job. Probably to late for the OP, but a warning to those who follow. I surface ground a half dozen when I rebuilt my head.

Super Josh. Originally Posted by wbdiv. Three different words that sound similar; they're NOT interchangeable no matter how lazy you are. When it gets to be time to set clearances, it's a lot easier if you go metric all the way. More details at post 7 here. Originally Posted by Super Josh. Thanks y'all. Head is still off the car and disassembled.

Was thinking it would be relatively? Showing my ignorance here, as I don't have a complete understanding of the valvetrain. That way, we would have an extra set of 16 just for future adjustments or heads, or to sell. There is a dimension that should be checked before any stem-grinding is done, and that is the height of the end of the valve stem above the valve spring seat.

When the valve and seat are ground, the valve is sunk lower into the seat, so the stem rises higher above the valve spring seat. What this does is decreases the valve spring tension of the assembled valve and spring. A small amount can be rectified by shimming the valve spring using an appropriate washer between the spring seat and the spring.

If the dimension is too great, then the head must be replaced. You can find this dimension in the factory service manual. If the end of the valve stem is cut before determining what the installed spring height will be then you have no basis for determining if you will have the proper amount of spring tension. Some engines will allow you to check spring height by assembling the valve spring retainer and keepers onto the valve and then checking the height between the retainer and the spring seat, but Mazda gives no guidance for that.

Rockwell one machine other , hu? Depends on whether the shims are thru hardened or surface hardened as to how much you can remove. Checked some Kaw shims a couple years ago. Cut two in half and checked hardness Rockwell C scale in center. Sent two to a guy who had them checked for composition at a university.

They were the same hardness through. Found out they were powdered metal like carbide. I ground several with plenty of coolant, and had no problems.

Haven't looked at the Busa's yet, but I'd bet they're the same. It's cheap and close tolerance. Milled one in half tonight there is no discernable sp color change or visual clue and to a "shell" hardness checked it in the milled center and got the same reading as before I milled it I think I have beat this to death now.

Randy is one of the owners. Quote from: bpreynolds on March 23, , AM. PeteS Guzzi Hero Posts: I would guess grinding would cost many times the cost of the shim. Grinding would be done on a surface grinder.

You could take a shim with cam wear marks and true it on a surface grinder. But all this is a last resort. Way cheaper to find new ones. My KLR was my first bike that used shims. What a PITA compared to screw adjusters on my antiques. Not that its difficult but the time spent measuring then finding them, days to weeks instead a few minutes. True, so very true.

Petrus Rocks Weekend Warrior Posts: I have sanded down shims for my Husqvarna. I used a piece of glass, grit wet sandpaper, and a magnet to hold the shim while sanding. Didn't take that long and I was able to keep the surfaces parallel. I also bought a box of shims later. Use a magnet to take the old shim out and put the new one in. You can do it as quick as screw adjusters.

If the shim rode under the bucket, grinding would be OK, but riding on top, no way. It would lose some of it's case hardening and with the cam banging on it, the risk of breaking into pieces is simply not worth it.

If you do it yourself, try it, but if you have to take it to a machine shop, it would be cheaper to buy new shims. Took the one shim to a local machinest, really nice fellow. And yes, gonna go ahead and buy a true one as well and replace when it comes in. If you must take off a lot, use a magnetic table and a surface grinder or vertcle mill.

Goddamn auto incorrect. Sasquatch Jim Humanoid, sort of. Location: Milwaukee. Good to see you got it done today. I have a local repair shop that let's me swap shims for no charge as long as they're in spec. Shims under bucket aren't fun. I can only imagine Brian sitting serenely at his desk at the Louisville branch library, where he's manager, hands moving busily in his lap, a sheepish smile on his face, trying to ignore the stares of his staff who are wondering just what he's doing down there.

That's a new one on us", while privately muttering, "And he looked so innocent Quote from: krglorioso on March 23, , PM. Personally, I would use new shims. Fortunately for me, my local dealer has a box full of shims. But, another thought that may be of interest to you. Triumph makes a jig that bolts to the head that compresses the valve spring, eliminating the need to remove the cam.

Just install the jig and pick the shim out with a magnet. I have the jig for the but, if I'm not mistaken, your Tbird is a Awesome quality. Back by popular demand. All proceeds go back into the forum. Pages: [ 1 ] 2 Go Up.